This week, inside that corner of the wall, I have recommenced work on the floor joists. I already knew that the joist beside the wall was rotten due to damp as a result of the concrete path being too high. However, I was surprised to find something which, at first glance, appeared to be a 1.5" iron pipe, right in the corner. Closer inspection showed that it was, in fact, a root of ivy! Somehow this has penetrated the 18" thick wall, and then it dives down underneath the end supporting wall for the joists (see photo, right). Happily, the root was easier to cut than the trunk of the ivy which I have been trying to remove for ages.
You might think that ivy looks pretty on the side of your house but, believe me, you need to treat it as the Number One Enemy - get rid of it. Given half a chance, it will do all sorts of damage, by growing into (and through!) walls, under lead flashing, between junctions in gutters, under slates/tiles, and so on, causing damage which will probably be seen first as dampness. By then it is TOO LATE and you are already into expensive repairs!
More Fun with Joists
Continuing the joist work, I then removed the floorboards in the rectangular bay window; this was a known problem area which I had been avoiding for some time. I fully expected to have to replace most of the six joists, as I had previously found all the skirting board very rotten. Of course, I should have known better: whilst removing the boards it was clear that there were bigger issues, as some of the joists were not attached to anything except the boards! The joist at one end of the window (lying on its side on the right of the photo) was the worst, as the wall plate on which it was meant to be resting had also rotted into oblivion at that end. The photo (right) shows (top left) the remaining piece of the wall plate and a surviving joist (centre). In fact, the whole wall plate was rotten and pretty useless so I lifted that out, together with four of the joists. I then could see that the two brick-high supporting wall was actually pretty bad as well; the bricks were all loose and, in its 1.75m length, there was a gap of about 50cm. It also suffered from being built too close to the outside wall; the gap was about 5cm at most. Consequently all the stuff which falls down the end of the floorboards (like plaster and rotting skirting boards) had been trapped between the two walls, even covering the wall plate. As the outside wall was damp (high ground and the rainwater falling from the broken gutter), the dampness had been allowed to invade the inside and this is why the wood had rotted.
Thus it was today that that I found myself mixing a load of hydraulic lime mortar in my own mixer (for the first time), rebuilding the supporting wall and fixing a new wall plate, instead of just using the same bit of 4x2 to replace some joists.
I decided to improve the design by building the new wall three inches further in, thus allowing space for any future debris. As with joinery, I find this sort of thing quite satisfying, even though it wasn't the task I intended to do.
As part of this job I realised that I had not seen evidence of the air-brick; a long time ago I had ensured this was clear outside to encourage ventilation. Closer investigation revealed that there was a large clump of cement covering it, which I then removed with a couple of taps with a club hammer. Presumably it had been blocked because it was causing a draught, but whoever did it seemed to be entirely unaware that its function is exactly that!
2 comments:
Matthew, not clear from your pictures but if you're building "sleeper" walls to support joists, you may need an airflow through them to ensure both sides remain dry - build in a honeycomb pattern, with gaps between the bricks. Sub-floor voids are notorious problem areas for damp & dry/wet rot, out of sight is out of mind! Unblocking your airbrick is great but if you can install more (CO should be amenable to this for the health of the building if you can find a sympathetic type) then getting a cross-flow of air is vital, a single brick may not give enough draught to keep the area dry. Hope this helps.
The supporting wall is only two bricks high, so I can't make it in a honeycomb. Air can pass between the joists over the wall plate and there is a gap (not visible in photo) at either end of the supporting wall. At least it's now better than it was (and that lasted 120 years...).
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