The quantity of materials for the mortar bed again caused problems; I got a sufficient amount of NHL5, only by calculating for 5 or 6 bags and getting 9 for safety! However, I calculated that we needed only about 600 kg of sharp sand, so bought a tonne bag from a local supplier. Over the bank holiday weekend we ran out of both sand and time, so adjourned until I could get some more sand delivered - I got another tonne and I think we used about 300 kg. The issue (I think) was that the slab and screed were not actually level; I measured a 50 mm depth to be filled to be level with the floor in the hall, but at the far side of the room the depth was nearer 80 mm. Also, the flagstones were of variable thickness some were only 18 mm but others were anything up to 38 mm; this made it hard to guess the average thickness in order to calculate the average depth for the bed. I think I used 30 mm for the average stone thickness (hence a required bed thickness of 20 mm) but it was probably nearer 25 mm, so the average bed thickness needed was more like 40 mm - quite a large error.
Chris and Shane again did a sterling job. Chris (left) did the actual laying and level checking while, apart from doing the mixes, Shane also did the required stone cutting using a hired 9 inch grinder (for which I bought the blade as the hire cost was over half the purchase price). This is not easy - 
I had a go, and found that there is a good deal of skill and strength needed, as well as the ability to see the cutting line through the clouds of dust. See Shane (right) cutting a bit of limestone coping for me.
My main roles were moving the buckets of mix, selecting the next stones and a layout which Jane and I had produced the evening before (it wasn't easy!). What we wanted was a layout with no discernible regularity and very few continuous joint lines. Unfortunately, we did not get the expected sizes of stone, and it was just not possible to achieve the second aim; we expected to get 60 cm stones in a selection of lengths - 30 cm, 45 cm, 60 cm, 75 cm and 90 cm. These being multiples of 15, I thought that something would be achievable, but what we got we lots of 45s and 70s (yes, NOT 75 cm) and relatively few 30s and 60s, with only one 90 cm. If you think you can do better, try to find a way of making a 6.1 x 3.6 irregular pattern rectangle with cut sides only at the edges (or else you have to dress the edge as well). Of course, don't forget the chimney breast and the fact that the room is not a perfect rectangle...
Other progress this week has been tiling half the bathroom (so that the basin and loo can be installed), refitting the last skirting boards (so that the radiators can now be fitted), cutting the original quarry tiles at the doorway to the kitchen and re-fitting them (flush to the new floor), and stripping more brown gunk (not shellac, I am told) from all the internal doors. Finally, Jane has rolled the walls of the main bedroom with white emulsion in her customary "it's OK to get it all over me as well" mode. She was amused (I hope) when I offered to fetch the car rather than walk along 100 yards along the road with her in that state - well, what would our new neighbours think?
2 comments:
Hiya!
We just laid a limecrete floor, with limestone on top the same as you. I noticed that because it is porous stains steep into the limestone easily- how do you counteract that? Did you put something natural/ breathable on the stone to help it resist spills? I've read about olive oil/ Marseille soap, our local heritage officer said wax but not sure about that, and we read somewhere about goats milk. Not sure what to do but we'd prefer to keep things natural that can breakdown over time.
Also, how do you clean/ mop the floor? (What with?)
Thanks!
Emma
We have nothing on our floor apart from a sacrificial natural rug near the stove (lasts two years then buy a new one). If something is spilt then we wipe it up pretty quickly with damp paper towels or, if greasy, with some washing-up liquid as well. The unsealed floor is cleaned with a VAX steam cleaner (the sort with a flannel or other material head cover) and we do that about once every six months. We also use a Dyson Fluffy to get the dust off once per week.
On a similar designed limecrete floor in our church I do the floor with the same VAX about once every four months but we have found that stains fade quite quickly - they don't seep into the floor as one might think - even red wine is not a problem on a honey coloured natural stone with NO sealing.
I do not think that there is anything which allows the floor to breathe and which seals it - the two requirements are incompatible. Anything is a compromise of sealing which allows some breathing, and once you seal it is difficult to go back, so I would always say to try it with no sealing first!
Post a Comment